My grandmother never once made apple pie, but I’m sure everyone has a family recipe they hold close to their heart – am I right? Like something a certain loved one brings to every holiday that’s been passed down through generations.
For me, it’s been these family recipes that speak best to our family traditions. Growing up our family had a few, and I recall them each fondly. Gramma Shank’s amazing beef and barley stew, and her marbled red and green cupcakes; they always bring back memories of visiting her in Syracuse, NY. Then there’s Gramma Jean’s Mandlebroit (similar to a biscotti) and peppery coleslaw, along with her corn pudding and storied sliced egg sandwich (a soft-boiled egg, sliced and served between two pieces of buttered egg bread). These creations may not sound revolutionary, but those sandwiches were amazing and are still served at family functions today. And we still argue about who gets the crispy corners of the corn pudding. That’s tradition too!
Every Friday night, my family would drive from our suburban home, into Toronto to visit my Papa Harry and Gramma Jean. And every Friday, like clockwork, we’d walk into their apartment and be immediately greeted with warm ‘arbus’ (chickpeas) seasoned with a heavy hand of salt and pepper. Thankfully, the arbus was spicier than it was salty. During those Friday nights, we could always expect three things. First, the arbus would be served warm (and that’s how we still enjoy it today). Second, we would have to finish our meal in its’ entirety, or dessert would be out of the question. And lastly, we would watch television shows like “The Love Boat” and “Fantasy Island” until we fell asleep. All of it, as mentioned, like clockwork.
It’s these family recipes that have inspired flavour profiles throughout my own professional cooking career.
my one shot
About thirteen years ago, my wife Tamar and her oldest childhood friend started an amazing frozen organic baby food company, called “Sweetpea Baby Food”. They sold the company a few years ago, but while they were at the helm, they were approached with some interesting opportunities; the coolest (for me) was a publishing company that had interest in writing a book about baby food. The first meeting with the publisher went so well that it turned into a second meeting, and a third; now fast forward to ten years later, and I’ve written four books with Bob and his publishing house, Robert Rose Publishing.
When Bob and I were working through the outline of my first book, “Easy Gourmet Baby Food”, I advocated to include recipes for both babies and their parents. To me, it just made a lot of sense; prepare one main ingredient and use it in food for both baby and adult. I pitched the idea and Bob agreed. For example, when Jamie was a baby we served her sweet potato puree. For Jonah, who was older, we would mix that same puree with parmesan cheese and serve it with noodles as ‘Jonah’s Mac and Cheese’, which is an actual item from the book. For mom and dad, we suggested adding sliced chicken breast or virtually anything else. At the time, I wanted to include the adult recipes because they were my ‘signature dishes’ and as far as I was concerned, I was sure it was going to be my one and only opportunity to write a book.
As is a regular theme in my blog, I was wrong. Obviously! But the first book laid the template.
For months I created recipes for babies, toddlers and parents. And all of the recipes were created with the same approach I have today; to produce food that is familiar and recognizable using the best ingredients possible. Today, I also choose to create without refined sugar, gluten, or dairy.
recipes live on
My Gramma Shank will soon be turning 96 years old, and she is one cool woman. “Shank”, as we call her, is very special to us and I’m very grateful that my children, and all the grandkids, have built a relationship with her. Although she lives in Florida, we still visit her from time to time, and talk as often as possible. And even though she hasn’t been able to visit us in Toronto for the last decade, she’s always been present – because her food has always been here. My mom and siblings have ensured that we continue to serve her memorable recipes, which often brings thoughts of Shank into our home.
There is no dish we associate with Gramma Shank more than her Cheese Latkes (pronounced LAT-KEYS). They’re made using four main ingredients; cottage cheese, white sugar, egg and flour. But these latkes are so good they rarely make it to the kitchen table! The family usually hovers around my gramma or mom, and takes them right from the sauté pan, using our hands as tongs. They’re always HOT but they’re also always totally worth a burn or two.
When thinking of my own recipes, I look for inspiration around every corner. On a recent camping trip with my wife to Ontario’s North, Tamar and I purchased a few pounds of wild Ontario blueberries. They were amazing! I wanted to challenge myself and come up with interesting ways to eat them, other than just a handful at a time. Even though handfuls of local, wild blueberries are pretty darn good!
Immediately after buying those blueberries, I thought about Shank. I think about her a lot actually. I’m largely inspired by my memories, my family, and my friends. So, I wanted to recreate Shank’s cheese latkes using ingredients I work with today, and more importantly, without all of the sugar and bleached flour she usually uses.
Not only did I create something similar to Shank’s latkes, I used ingredients I feel good about eating. And it was delicious! This recipe was inspired by the matriarch of our family, and I hope this recipe allows her to live on through generations of Wagmans. I also hope you love eating them as much as I loved creating them. May these Corn and Blueberry Latkes become a staple in your home too!
Thank you, Shank. I tell you all the time, but I’ll say it again, you’re one cool lady!
Your Grandson,
– jw
